Good morning, friends!
Today, if you’re looking for lighter content, I am sharing my weekly WELLNESS WEDNESDAY post. If you’re looking to read about something impactful, historical and extremely significant, I have a few words to share about this particular day on our winter break trip.
On January 3rd, our family visited Auschwitz.
I have been a travel professional now almost fourteen years and have sent thousands of clients to certain areas of Europe where one can visit former concentration camps. I have had some clients specifically build their trips around these experiences and others who find this too sensitive. I’ve had clients go as individuals and as families. Visiting the site of these camps is extremely personal, highly sensitive, and I understand when it’s not right experience for some.
I shared this before, but it was Kensington who started requesting that our family visit Poland. When she was in elementary school, she learned about Poland and specifically asked that we go and visit Auschwitz. Including this day in our vacation was a family discussion. We talked at length about it, we looked at photographs on the internet and read about the camps and discussed in detail the Holocaust and World War II especially with Madeley. As a family, we all agreed that this day was important for us, so we went.
This day was especially sensitive, so I’ve decided that I am not going to blog about our time there or share more than two photos of the camps. I do, however, have a few thoughts should you be considering visiting Auschwitz as well:
1: Auschwitz is only about 50 minutes outside of Krakow, Poland. There are technically two camps there. There is the original Auschwitz and then the Nazis later built a second much much larger camp about three miles down the road named Auschwitz Birkenau. When I refer to Auschwitz in this post, unless specified, I am referring to both locations.
2: You are required to visit Auschwitz on a guided group tour. Due to threats and illegal behavior on the properties, you are not allowed to tour alone or freely walk around without a guide. You are given two different stickers that identify your language and which group you belong to. These stickers have to be visible the entire time you’re there.
3: I recommend purchasing your tickets for your guided tour in advance. The tours are given in many different languages, so if English isn’t your first language, there are a multitude of other options. I would recommend arriving at least 30 to 45 minutes before your tour begins so that you have time to go through security.
4: When you are purchasing your tickets, please make sure the names on your tickets match your passports EXACTLY. Everyone entering Auschwitz must show their passport along with their ticket. Even small children are required to have IDs that accompany their ticket. Please do not arrive without your passport.
5: There has been security at every former concentration camp I have visited, but this one most certainly had the highest. It was similar to going through airport security. Please be mindful of things in your pocket. If your husband routinely carries a pocketknife or anything like that, it won’t be allowed inside.
6: Our guided tour was from beginning to end about 4 hours. This is a walking tour, so please make sure you’re dressed for the weather (it was snowing hard on us when our tour first began…the hardest snow we saw all trip). You will be walking the entire time (the longest stretch we walked without stopping was half a mile and then we stopped and then we walked another half mile. Our family took the most steps this day (27,000).
7: There are no elevators or ramps, and many stairs to climb. So please be aware if these are things you need.
8: Your tour will start at the original Auschwitz location. This is where you will park, go through security, meet your guide and begin. Each group looked to have about 30ish people in it. You are given headphones so that you can clearly hear your guide even if you’re not next to her in your group. We had no issues hearing our guide. She did a wonderful job and stayed with us the entire time. Once your group finishes touring the original Auschwitz location, your guide will put you on a bus that will drive you the three miles to the Auschwitz Birkenau camp. You’ll get off the bus as a group and tour that one next. When that tour is over, she/he will put you back on the bus to the parking lot where your car is located.
9: This was my fifth visit to a former concentration camp. Andrew and I have also been to Dachau (in Germany) twice, Mauthausen (in Austria), and Breendonk (in Belgium). We have specific takeaways from each of these memorials. They were all very different experiences because each of those camps is uniquely different. I have seen a plethora of photos, videos, and movies of Auschwitz, but I was not prepared AT ALL for the size and magnitude of it. It absolutely blew my mind.
The entrance to the original Auschwitz. The sign above says “work makes one free” in German which was absolutely untrue. The prisoners had to install the sign for the Germans and as you can see, out of defiance, they placed the “B” upside down.
The entrance to Auschwitz Birkenau.
It was a very serious and somber day for the Shull six that lead to many, many really important conversations moving forward in our trip and even back here at home. All six of us were greatly moved by this experience.
Just Thursday, Madeley went with her class to the library to select this year’s Living History Museum person and, for the first time, instead of choosing her favorite fashion designer to study and “be” for the next six weeks, she selected Anne Frank. When I asked her why, she said it was because she knew her dad had survived Auschwitz, and she wanted to learn more about her and her family.
It was an impactful day for the Shulls and should you ever have the opportunity and feel like it’s right for you, I hope you consider visiting too.
After our very full day, we ended our evening back in Krakow…
…so I thought I’d share some photos that beautiful city on that wintery night…
Thank you for stopping by today. I’ll see you all back here tomorrow. xx
Susan Jeffries says
Thank you for sharing. We have a day planned at Dachau on our trip to Germany. I know it will humbling yet beautiful and educational. I think that everyone should be required to learn about the atrocities that accompanied WW2.
Sugar Bostick says
Agree with you 1000%
Elspeth Mizner says
What a moving experience. Thank you for sharing!
http://www.elspethsdaybyday.com
Amber says
What an important day your family won’t ever forget.
Nicole says
Thank you for sharing and I love that Anne Frank is a chosen research project. My family and I were able to visit the beaches of Normandy a couple summers ago. That too moved all of us in ways we did not prepare for.
Paige E says
I love how you chose to cover this portion of your trip. Well done.
Darian says
I concur! Well done!
Jeanie H says
My Dad was a helicopter mechanic in the Army in the late 40’s early 50’s and their job was stationed in Krakow. It was part of their assignment to fly over Auschwitz regularly to guard it against looters. He said that when they would fly over those two camps, the evil felt palpable. It was like it was rising up in the air.
Sarah DeWald says
I’m so glad you were able to experience such an important place as a family. Thanks for sharing. xoxo
Paula Hobbs says
I can only imagine how somber this day must have been, but I think it’s also a wonderful thing to witness and discuss as a family. My husband and I visited Alcatraz a few months ago and we immediately started discussing bringing our children back to visit in the near future. I think it’s great that Madeley is researching Anne Frank. I hope she allows you to share her project with us!
Becca says
Wow, I respect so much that you are not only teaching your children about the history and horrors of the Holocaust, but sharing about it your visit on here in such a somber and respectful way. The level of antisemitism in the world today is so sad. It’s important that we remember our history so we don’t make the same mistakes again.
Amanda Wilson says
😭 We have cried through many books that feature Auschwitz’s. By we I mean you and me Shay lol. We visited AnneFranks house and I was bawling so hard….I can’t imagine how emotional and absolutely impactful that would be.
Debbie Alsip says
Krakow looks like such a beautiful European city. Actually, all your photos of Poland make me want to visit it. I have been to Dachau, and I knew it must be so much smaller and a totally different feel than Auschwitz. Your handling of the sensitive nature of the place is commendable.
Katherine says
Thank you for sharing–I teach at a community college and have students read The Tattooist of Auschwitz in one class. I appreciate your sensitivity to sharing your experience in visiting and outlining the process for going. It’s definitely on my family’s list to visit as we fully believe in the importance of learning history–and recognizing this atrocity wasn’t that long ago.
Shoshanah says
Many Holocaust educators and Auschwitz itself have actually spoken out on that book and its inaccuracy. (If you search those arts are pretty easy to find.) It’s definitely a topic that should be taught, but I’d recommend looking into other books.
Elle says
I’ve been reading your blogs for over a decade and have never left a comment until now. As the granddaughter of Holocaust survivors, THANK YOU for taking your kids to visit and for blogging about it so thoughtfully and respectfully. Truly I’m so grateful. Holocaust denial is so sickening and prevalent. Can’t thank you enough.
Bren says
Thank you for sharing, Shay. I appreciate the details you shared on what is needed to visit. Thank you again.
Jammie Hahn says
Thanks for sharing this post. I really enjoy your posts that are more serious in nature, such as the ones regarding adoption and the troubles in Northern Ireland. I know your blog is mostly about family, fun, health, and travel, but the more serious ones are truly the best ones to me.
Hanna says
With all that’s going on in Minnesota and our country, learning and remembering history so we don’t repeat it is so important.
Elizabeth says
Couldn’t agree more. And I also agree with above commenter Jammie – I think the fun lifestyle stuff is made richer when you also engage with the heaviness of the world even if only from time to time.
andrea in mn says
Further agreement. Thank you, Shay, for sharing about Auschwitz. I toured Dachau when backpacking/studying abroad in my early 20’s.
I am born/raised in MN and have lived in the metro area for 20 years. Today residents who are not white are being asked to “show papers” for no apparent reason, being pulled over in cars or walking, on the bus, etc. This is even happening to off duty police officers.
Let’s continue to share history with the next generations.
Em B says
I’m glad someone made this connection, and I can’t imagine what it’s like to live in Minnesota right now. My late grandmother survived Auschwitz – never forget.
Ellen says
That’s how I felt after the Anne Frank exhibit I referenced below. The atrocities are being repeated every day in Minneapolis and other cities. I have a feeling my city is up next. It will be a true test of humanity to see who among us fights back.
JT says
As a Minnesotan, I whole heartedly agree and am so thankful that you took the time to educate your kids on the Holocaust. The terror that ICE is wreaking here is too similar to the early stages of Nazi Germany, as they violently abduct American citizens, invade homes without warrants, threaten observers, and point guns at children. It’s unbelievable that this can happen in America.
Angela says
It sounds like touring Auschwitz was such a somber and heavy day… so much heartbreak and such a historical tragedy. Shay, do you have any recommendations of novels or movies that your family watched, to help them have background on Auschiwtz?
Thank you for sharing about your experiences and what all one can expect if we go on a tour of Auschwitz.
Mix and Match Mama says
Absolutely! Andrew, Ashby and I all three read The Tattooist of Auschwitz. It was my second favorite book of the year a few years ago. I can’t recommend it enough.
Em B says
Shay, I commend how you handled this post and have nothing but respect for taking your family to see Auschwitz, and then sharing in such a thoughtful way on the blog.
I do want to mention that this book is controversial: it shows a relatively “easy” and free prisoner’s life and it’s been seen as glossing over the camp’s brutal reality. Even the aspect of a sexual relationship among prisoners was overall unlikely given the level of oversight and also severe starvation they endured. I think it’s still a worthwhile read, but I’d urge any reader to also do some reading about the book’s inaccuracies.
(This is personal for me – my late grandmother survived auschwitz, while most of my family on that side died there).
Kay says
Shay-thank you for sharing this. It is so important that we remember. I truly appreciate this post.
Kristin says
Thank you for sharing this in so much detail. We are considering a trip in a couple of years that would include Auschwitz. My husband has already been to Dachau, and his first reaction was that it would be too painful to visit another camp. But, he realized that it’s important that we not forget what happened and what people are capable of, especially in light of what is happening now.
Tara G. says
FYI…Amsterdam has a really fantastic occupation museum with an interactive section for children which really was fantastic for adults, too. Also, the one in Riga is very well done.
Madeley might enjoy the story The Winged Watchman.
Ellen says
I recently went to the Anne Frank exhibit at the Center for Jewish History in NYC. It is extremely well done and absolutely harrowing. I’ve always been so touched by her father’s survival and his ultimate choice to share her story with the world.
It is impossible to consider this story without feeling sick recognition over some of the shameful treatment of minorities right now. I pray every day for peace.
Laura says
as the granddaughter of Holocaust survivors who survived the concentration camps, thank you for visiting and and thank you for posting about it on your blog. I don’t know how anyone can claim that the Holocaust was fake or made up after visiting a camp. Now is more important than ever. I know it is not always ideal to spend a day of what is a fun trip to do something not quite so fun, but thank you, thank you, thank you. Holocaust Remembrance Day is coming up next week.
Arika says
Wow. Even just reading your post gave me a physical reaction in my body. I cannot imagine at all how you must have felt walking on those grounds. Thank you for sharing with us, and for keeping your experiences private as well. I’m sure there were really difficult but impactful moments.
Bailey Morris says
Shay, have you ready The Hiding Place by Corrie ten Boom? I’m reading it now and I’m fascinated. I love hearing a Christian’s perspective during unspeakable evil – I think you will, too. Here’s the description from Amazon that explains it better than I could:
“Corrie ten Boom was the first licensed female watchmaker in the Netherlands who became a heroine of the Resistance, a survivor of Hitler’s concentration camps, and one of the most remarkable ministers of hope in the twentieth century.
In World War II she and her family risked their lives to help Jews and underground workers escape from the Nazis. In 1944 their lives were forever altered when they were betrayed, arrested, and thrown into the infamous Nazi death camps. Only Corrie among her family survived.
This is her incredible true story–and ultimately the story of how faith, hope, and forgiveness triumphed over unthinkable evil.”
Surely you all will remember this trip for the rest of your lives. xoxo
Mix and Match Mama says
I haven’t, but Ashby just recently read a book about her, so she’s been a big topic around our house. I don’t think it was the same one, but I certainly should read this one too. Thank you for the rec!!
Laura says
Oh yes I second this book recommendation!!
Kat says
I recently went on a tour of her home, just outside of Amsterdam. It was fascinating and thought provoking.
Ellen says
That book is a life-changer.
Lily says
Wow….I am so impressed with K for learning about Poland and the camps back in elementary school, and maintaining interest in visiting for all these years! it’s wonderful how you parents demonstrated to the whole family the significance of such a place, as hard and upsetting as it may be. I can’t help but think the visit to Auschwitz is even more important now, when immigrants and citizens alike in the U.S. are being harassed and traumatized (and worse) by a government agency masquerading as law and order. You got to show your kids how dangerous that path is, and where it ends. I fervently hope we all work towards honoring “never again.” Thank you.
Andrea Conrad says
Shay, one of the reasons you are my very favorite blogger is because you’re not afraid to do things like this & share things like this with us. Madeley wanting to learn more about Anne Frank instead of a fashion model/designer speaks volumes. May we all learn to value others, to love them & treat them well, no matter how different they are from us 🩷
Elana says
Thank you for bearing witness and for giving your children this powerful and meaningful experience. As the voices of those who lived through it grow fewer, it becomes even more important to carry their stories forward so they are never forgotten. Never again.
Amanda says
As someone who is half Jewish, thank you for the tasteful and touching manner in which you presented this post. I love reading about your travels!
Lenae says
We took our family to Auschwitz on Jan 27 this year. It was intense(as it should be). We were shown the movie on our bus ride to the camp. I was teary eyed throughout but I also would warn people I send there that the room with the hair was overwhelming. We were told by our tour guide they recommend the movie Zone of Interest.
Claudia Russo says
Yes, it’s probably the best movie I have ever seen about the Holocaust. Highly recommend.
Hope says
Gosh Shay, I have no words. Just knowing what I know about the Holocaust and concentration camps, your post was so incredibly moving without you going into detail. I love that you guys have difficult conversations as a family. My 10 yr old saw a story on our local news about the Holocaust and asked me about it. I explained it to her and she couldn’t believe that people could/can be so evil and mean. She read a “What was” book on the Holocaust and would stop every few pages and say ” Mama can you believe they did this”, it was really eye opening to her. We have a Holocuast museum near us and that is on our list along with a few other museums to visit on days off from school. Did you watch any movies orlr videos with your younger kids on the Holocaust?
Renee says
Thank you for your post. Did your family talk about the parallels to today? The raids and detention centers?
Mix and Match Mama says
We absolutely talked about present day as well.
Libby says
My husband & I visited Auschwitz in the early 2000s. I don’t remember security being as tight as you described it. We went with the Zurich International Women’s Club, so maybe they waived some of that for us or have tightened since then. It will be a place I will always remember & feel. My husband and I could feel the death there. Everything was gray & silent. Other than the visitors, there was no other form of life…no grass, no birds, no signs of insects. It was very eerie & unforgettable. On a side note, there is a Holocaust museum in Houston that is highly rated.
Amanda says
I visited Auschwitz several years ago and it was such a heavy and impactful experience. I had recently read The Hiding Place and I think that made it all the more intense. The original camp was kind of quaint in a way that made it even more disturbing. Birkenau felt more forthright in its cruelty if that makes sense. I’ll never forget what I saw in those places but more than that what I felt.
Claudia Russo says
I visited in the dead of winter, and there we all were in our boots and coats and hats and gloves…freezing. How did they survive with only a pair of pajamas on? It’s the thing that stuck with me the most.
Marybeth says
Thank you for sharing this experience and the respectful way in which you shared it. I hope to visit it someday.
As an educator, it warms my heart that sweet Madeley chose Anne Frank for her project. What an impact that day made on her!